LG Washer Error Codes: The Full List, Resets, and Costs
Before you look your code up, do this: power the washer off, unplug it, and — with the power still off — press and hold START/PAUSE for five seconds. Then plug it back in and try the cycle again. That is LG’s own documented reset for dE and PF, and a transient fault of any kind may clear on it. If the code comes straight back, it is real, and the table below tells you what LG says it means.
One thing to know before the table, because it is one reason a reset can seem not to work: LG does not specify one reset. It specifies five, and which one you need depends on the code.
Codes and reset procedures read directly from LG’s own US Help Library. LG publishes three overlapping washer code documents and this page is compiled from all three: LG Washer — Error Code List (updated September 3, 2026), LG Front Load Washer — Error Code List (New) (March 9, 2026), and LG Top Load Washer — LED Blinking Error Codes (March 22, 2025). Part prices verified August 2026.
A note on the sourcing, because this page got it wrong once. An earlier version reported that LG had retired its single consolidated “LG Washer — Error Code List.” That is not true, and it was re-checked at the source on September 7, 2026: the consolidated list returns directly with no redirect, it carries a five-way selector for front-load, top-load, pedestal, washer-dryer combo and WashTower machines, and LG updated it on September 3, 2026 — more recently than either of the other two pages. What produced the mistake is worth knowing if you go looking yourself: LG sends any unrecognized Help Library address to the library index, so a page that has merely moved is indistinguishable from a page that is gone unless you check the address that actually works.
One more thing worth knowing before the table: neither list contains the other. dL, dE3, D3, DR, E6 and E7 are published only on the consolidated list; the numeric E01–E33 aliases, AE, FF/u51, OPn, Ed1–Ed5 and vS/uS only on the front-load list. LE is on both, and it is one of three codes where the two pages do not give the same remedy — dE1 and dE2 are the others — see the reset table below. That asymmetry is why the table below is compiled from all three pages, and why looking a real code up on a single LG page can honestly return nothing at all.
The five resets, and which codes take which
| Reset | Codes LG applies it to | Why it’s this one |
|---|---|---|
| Power off → unplug → hold START/PAUSE 5 seconds → plug back in | dE, PF — and, on the front-load list only, dE1 and dE2 | Drains residual charge from the control before it re-reads the door switch or restarts after an outage |
| Unplug for 10 seconds | CE, dL, PE, tE — and on WashCombo units, dHE, HE, SE. dE1 and dE2 on the consolidated list only | A plain controller restart, enough to clear a one-off sensor read |
| Unplug for 60 seconds | AE, Ed1–Ed5 | LG words this one differently from the 10-second restart and applies it to the leak switch and the dispenser pumps — the components that have to re-read a level or a float from scratch rather than resume |
| Unplug for 10 minutes | EE | This is a fault in the main board’s EEPROM — the memory needs the board’s supply to drain fully, not momentarily |
| Leave it alone for 30 minutes — or unplug for 5 | LE | One of three codes where LG’s own two lists give different instructions, and the widest disagreement of the three. The consolidated list says to “let the appliance rest for 30 minutes to cool down” and never mentions the cord; the front-load list says to “Unplug the power cord, wait 5 minutes, and try the cycle again.” Both treat it as an overloaded, locked motor |
That last row is the one worth reading twice, and not for the reason it first looks like. LE is the code where LG’s two lists disagree most, read the same day: the consolidated list tells you to leave the machine alone for 30 minutes and never mentions the cord, while the front-load list tells you to unplug it for five. Neither is a misprint of the other — they disagree about whether the cord matters at all.
What both agree on is the diagnosis, and that is the part that decides what you should do: the motor is overloaded and locked, so it has tripped on temperature or on load, not on electronics. A motor that has thermally protected itself is still hot ten seconds later, so the shortest reset on this page is the wrong instruction either way — the code returns and the owner concludes the machine needs a part. Whichever of LG’s two pages you land on, the waiting is doing the work and the unplugging is not. Take the longer of the two.
The other two disagreements are on the door codes, and there the two lists do not even agree on which reset to run. On dE1 and dE2 the consolidated list says “Unplug the washer for 10 seconds” — the plain restart in the second row above. The front-load list heads the same two codes “Reset the Washer” and gives the first row instead: “Power OFF the washer. Unplug the washer from the power outlet or flip the circuit breaker to turn the unit off. With the power disabled, press and hold the START/PAUSE button for 5 seconds.” dE itself gets the START/PAUSE hold on both pages, so the split is only on the two numbered variants.
Which one to run: the START/PAUSE hold, and the reason is in the third column of the table. On this page’s own reading of the mechanism, holding the button while the power is off is the 10-second unplug plus a step — it drains the control rather than merely interrupting it — so it does everything the shorter instruction does and cannot do less. Neither of LG’s pages says the other is wrong, and their dates do not settle it either: the consolidated list carries the more recent update (September 3, 2026 against March 9, 2026), while the front-load list is the narrower match if your machine is a front-loader. If it is a SideKick pedestal, neither applies — see the pedestal row further down, where dE1 is a drawer code with no reset at all.
Every fault code LG publishes, with LG’s own definition
Every fault code LG publishes for its US washers, with LG’s own definition. Not everything LG puts on this display is a fault — five more messages are working features rather than failures, and they have their own section below. Three of these codes mean different things depending on which LG you own, and they have their own section below — so confirm yours against the manual for your specific model number before buying anything.
| Code | What LG says it is | Try first | Part implicated | Where it lands |
|---|---|---|---|---|
IE · E02 · E10 | Water supply inadequate | Faucets fully open, hoses unkinked, inlet filters clean | Inlet valve | DIY first, then ~$139 part |
OE · E03 · E21 | Water cannot drain | Drain hose kinked or clogged; clean the drain pump filter | Drain pump | DIY first, then ~$58 part |
UE / Ub / uE | Unbalanced load | Redistribute; add items if the load is small | None — on six top-load models, see the recall note below | Free |
LE | Motor overloaded and locked | Rest 30 minutes, restart | Two routes — see the parts table below | $55–$309 part |
LE1 | Locked motor, often an obstruction | Check the seam between drum and pulsator for a coin, zipper or paper clip | None if you find the object | Free–$309 |
dE · E01 | Door will not lock | The 5-second reset above; press the door firmly | Door lock switch | ~$71 part |
dE1 | Door open and not locked (may display del / dEL) | Close door fully — then either reset, LG’s two lists disagree (see the reset table above) | Door lock switch | ~$71 part |
dE2 · E30 | Door closed but not locking | Either reset, LG’s two lists disagree (see the reset table above); then restart | Door lock switch | ~$71 part |
dL | Door latch switch not functioning | Remove anything caught in the door, unplug 10 sec | Door latch / switch | ~$71 part |
FE · E04 · E12 | Overfilling — water level too high | Turn off the taps, run a drain or spin-only cycle, then stop using it | Water inlet valve | ~$139 part |
PE · E33 | Water level sensor fault | See below — the cheap cause is real | Pressure switch | ~$65 part |
CE | Two different faults. See below | Unplug 10 sec (front load) | Motor circuit / control | Varies widely |
tE | Heating or thermistor error | Unplug 10 sec | Thermistor | ~$25 part |
E6 | Clutch error — object between pulsator and tub | Remove everything, check the seam, pull the object with pliers | None if found | Free–service call |
E7 | SideKick not properly installed under an LG front load washer or dryer | Re-align the SideKick, check the stacking switch | None | Free |
EE | Main control board EEPROM fault | Unplug 10 minutes | Main control board | ~$286 part |
PS | Supply voltage incorrect | Check the outlet — LG specifies 120 VAC ±5% and correct polarity | Household wiring | Electrician, not appliance tech |
PF | Power failure during the cycle | The 5-second reset above | None | Free |
FF · u51 | Unit is frozen | Warm water into the drum; a warm wet towel over the supply hose | None | Free |
SUD / sUD | Too many suds | Use less detergent | None | Free |
D3 | Coupling part malfunction | — | Coupling | Service call |
AE | Leak detected inside the machine. The anti-flood safety switch has tripped | Check the inlet hose for cuts and loose connections; unplug 60 sec, restart — LG’s next step if it persists is a service request, not a second attempt | Inlet hose, or the safety switch | Free–service call |
vS / uS / u5 | Vibration sensor — contact problem or sensor fault | Press START/PAUSE to resume. LG publishes no unplug time for this code — unlike AE and the Ed codes beside it, its entry stops at powering off and restarting | Vibration sensor | Service if repeated |
OPn | Detergent drawer not fully inserted, or opened mid-cycle | Push the drawer fully home | None | Free |
Ed1 / Ed2 | Liquid detergent level did not drop — faulty pump (Ed1) or open circuit in it (Ed2) | Check detergent type; clear residue from the tray | Detergent pump | Service call |
Ed3 / Ed4 | Liquid softener level did not drop — faulty pump (Ed3) or open circuit in it (Ed4) | Liquid softener only — powder must go in the drum by hand | Softener pump | Service call |
Ed5 | PCB communication failure | Unplug 60 sec | Main control board | Service call |
dHE | Temporary dry-function error (WashCombo) | Unplug 10 sec | — | Service if repeated |
HE | Temporary heater error (WashCombo) | Unplug 10 sec | — | Service if repeated |
SE | Sensor error (WashCombo) | Unplug 10 sec | — | Service if repeated |
If your display shows a number, not letters
Eight of the codes above carry a second name, and nine of those names are numbers. LG’s current front-load list groups them explicitly — OE,E03,E21 and IE,E02,E10 and dE,dE1,dE2,E01,E30 are single entries on LG’s own page, not separate faults — and almost nothing else does, so a reader looking at E21 finds nothing.
That is a count, not an impression. A search for LG washer error codes on September 11, 2026 returned nine results on its first page; eight could be read (Sears Parts Direct returned 403). One published the numeric aliases: the LG front-load list quoted above. The other seven give the letter set only — LG Parts, Domex, KioSoft and a Lubbock repair shop, and, more surprisingly, three of LG’s own pages: its consolidated washer code list, its dedicated dE/dE1/dE2 article, and an LG regional blog. So the reader who finds nothing is not failing to reach the manufacturer. They can land on LG’s own support library three times over and still not learn that E21 and OE are one fault.
| Letter code | Also displayed as | Fault |
|---|---|---|
dE, dE1 | E01 | Door will not lock |
dE2 | E30 | Door closed but not locking |
IE | E02, E10 | Water supply inadequate |
OE | E03, E21 | Water cannot drain |
FE | E04, E12 | Overfilling |
PE | E33 | Water level sensor |
FF | u51 | Unit frozen |
The pattern is worth naming because it is not arbitrary: the E0x numbers run in the same order as the letter codes they replace — E01 door, E02 inlet, E03 drain, E04 overfill — while the higher numbers alias only three of those four — E10 inlet, E21 drain, E12 overfill. The other two name faults the E0x block never numbered: E33 is the pressure sensor, and E30 is the second door fault, dE2 — which the table above keeps apart from dE/E01 because the remedies differ, though LG files both in one entry. So a numeric display is not a different fault set. It is the same twenty-odd faults under a second vocabulary, and if you are holding a number you can safely read the letter row.
One caution that follows directly from it, and it is the reason to check rather than infer: E10 is an inlet fault here, not a door fault, even though E01 is the door. The leading zero is doing real work. Read the whole code, not its first two characters.
Five things LG puts on the display that are not faults
LG’s own pages say so explicitly. Four of the five are not in the fault table above, because LG does not document them as faults at all; only the lowercase uE has a row up there, and it shares that row with the capital UE that does need you to open the door.
CL — child lock. The control panel is deliberately disabled. LG’s note is the useful part: “turning the power off and back on will not reset this function.” So the standard first move makes it look like a dead control panel. Hold the two buttons above the control-lock marker for three seconds; LG says these are usually PRE-WASH and TUB CLEAN, and on some models the OPTION button.
tCL — tub clean reminder. A load counter, not a fault. Run the Tub Clean cycle with a powdered washing machine cleaner. LG notes the message may persist for a few cycles. On ezDispense models, dcL is its sibling — it appears when the nozzle-clean routine is running, and it is likewise not a fault.
Cd / CD — cool down. Shown by combo units at the end of a drying cycle. The machine tumbles 25 seconds every five minutes, without heat, for up to four hours, to keep the load from creasing. It stops when you press any button.
DR — auto-drain. LG defines this precisely: the machine drains itself if it is paused mid-cycle and left idle for 8 minutes, or powered on and left idle for 4 minutes. If you walked away from a paused load and came back to a drained tub and a code, that is the feature working.
Lowercase uE — a rebalance in progress. LG’s top-load guidance draws a distinction its written code list doesn’t: a small uE means the washer is currently rebalancing itself, adding water and redistributing the load, and it will make up to three attempts on its own. No action is required. Only a capital UE with the cycle paused means those attempts failed and you have to open the door and rearrange the load yourself.
That distinction is worth more than it looks, because it explains a complaint about LG washers that isn’t a fault at all: a machine that takes far longer than the display promised. Three rebalance attempts add water and repeat a rinse. A SUD detection adds a suds-reduction routine that LG says lengthens the cycle by about two hours. Neither is a breakdown, and neither is a reason to call anyone.
Six top-load models where an unbalanced load was a recall, not a nuisance
Everything above treats UE as a laundry problem. On six machines it was a safety action. LG recalled about 457,000 top-load washers on December 18, 2012. Its own notice states the hazard in the vocabulary of this very code: “An unbalanced load can cause the washing machine to shake excessively and the drum to come loose during use, posing a risk of injury to consumers and property damage.” LG names washing water-resistant items — mattress pads and covers — as what makes imbalance likelier. The record behind it is 343 vibration reports, 187 involving minor property damage, and one minor injury.
The list is six numbers long: WT5001CW, WT5101HV, WT5101HW, and Kenmore Elite 29002, 29272, 29278, built February 2010 to November 2011. Serials run 002KW–111KW on the three LG models and 005KW–111KW on the three Kenmore Elites — two ranges, not one. Do not look in the door opening for them: these are top-loaders and have no door, and CPSC’s listing puts the label “on the rating plate on the top back of the washing machine.” That matches this site’s own LG label locator, which gives the back panel as one of three places on a top-loader.
The remedy is a free in-home repair, and the door you knock on is no longer the one most pages name. CPSC’s instruction is to “immediately contact LG or Transform for Kenmore brand products” — Transform SR Brands, not Sears, took over Kenmore service, and the listing carries its own banner saying the Kenmore phone number and hours changed on August 31, 2020. LG’s line is (855) 400-4639; Transform’s, for a Kenmore Elite bought at Sears or Kmart, is (800) 659-7026. Owners also get a caution label and a manual insert.
In Canada the list is two numbers, not six. Health Canada’s notice, RA-16351 of December 18, 2012, covers only the WT5001CW and WT5101HV, built April 2010 to November 2011, and its serial ranges start later than the US ones: 103KW on the WT5001CW, 004KW on the WT5101HV. About 10,000 were sold in Canada. The remedy is the same free in-home repair, arranged through LG Electronics Canada rather than the US line above.
And unlike a warranty, this costs you nothing to qualify for. CPSC’s remedy sentence is addressed to “consumers” holding the machine — there is no original-purchaser clause and no receipt to produce, which is exactly the opposite of how the same brand’s warranty terms are written. A washer bought secondhand in 2015 is as eligible as one bought new in 2011.
The reason this is a note and not a banner is the length of the model list, not the age of the machines. A machine built in 2011 is fifteen years old, past both figures this site publishes for a washer — NAHB’s 10 and the ceiling of InterNACHI’s 5-to-15 band, in how long appliances last. Neither is a distribution, so neither can say how many of the 457,000 are still plumbed in, and the nearest washer figure this site carries measures a different thing: Consumer Reports’ “broke or stopped working as intended” rate of about 20% across 2011–2021 purchases is a break rate, not a scrappage rate. Treat the surviving population as unknown rather than small. What makes this a note is that the remedy costs nothing, the model list is six numbers long, and a persistent UE on one of them means something different than it does on any other LG. The full dated recall record for the brand is in are LG appliances reliable; what this site will and will not publish about a recalled machine is a standing rule, not a caution added here.
Three codes that mean different things depending on which LG you own
This is where most LG code pages go wrong: they publish one definition per code. LG doesn’t.
| Code | On a front-load washer | On a top-load washer |
|---|---|---|
CE | Over-current in the motor’s electrical circuit — a short, a loose connection, a ground fault or a power surge. LG’s first step is a 10-second unplug | The drum failed to reach 20 RPM within 3 minutes or 6 attempts. LG says this one needs a technician and to unplug the unit until it’s repaired |
PE | Water level sensor malfunctioning. 10-second reset, then service | LG’s top-load page sends you straight to a technician — but its blinking-LED page adds a cause worth trying first: over-sudsing from too much detergent or softener, fixable with a tub-clean cycle and a cleanser |
dE1 / dE2 | The door is open, or closed but not locking | On a SideKick pedestal washer these refer to the drawer, and dE3 — a code that doesn’t exist on the full-size machines — means the lid didn’t latch. LG’s first check there is whether the protective plastic film was ever removed from the lid |
The CE split is the one that costs money. Read the front-load definition on a top-loader and you will spend an evening chasing wiring on a machine that LG says has a drum which will not turn.
If your LG washer has no display
Some LG top-loaders have no alphanumeric readout. The fault shows as a pattern of blinking indicator lights across Door Lock, Control Lock, Hot, Warm, Cold, Rinse + Spin, Extra Rinse and Deep Fill, and LG maintains a separate filterable page for decoding them.
The codes reachable this way are dE, DR, EE, E6, LE1, PS, tE, PE, FE and dL. Seven of those ten are also in the consolidated list’s top-load section, whose whole published set is CE, D3, dE, dL, DR, E6, E7, FE, PF, PE, sUD, tCL and tE. Three are not, so the lights are the only way to reach them:
EE— a fault in the main control board’s EEPROM. LG’s fix is the 10-minute unplug; failing that, the board. This is the one with no alternative route at all: the string appears on neither of LG’s two written code lists.PS— supply voltage out of spec. LG’s stated requirement is 120 VAC ±5% with correct polarity, which makes this the one LG washer code where the right trade is an electrician. It is absent from the consolidated list entirely, though LG does document it on the front-load list, where it adds that the code is sometimes misread asP5.LE1— locked motor, and the one most likely to be misread, because a code one character shorter exists and is not the same instruction. NeitherLE1norLEis in the top-load section above.LEsits on LG’s other two lists, and they do not agree: the consolidated list says to “let the appliance rest for 30 minutes to cool down, then restart the washing cycle,” while the front-load list says to “Unplug the power cord, wait 5 minutes, and try the cycle again.”LE1on the blinking-code page sends you somewhere else entirely — empty the tub and check the seam between the drum and the pulsator for a coin, zipper or paper clip. So misreading the lights by one character costs you a wait before you start looking for the obstruction, and how long a wait depends on which LG page you happened to open.
If your machine shows lights rather than letters, LG’s blinking-code page lets you filter by which indicators are lit — it is the only page in LG’s US help library that publishes that mapping. The consolidated list does not reproduce it; it carries a tile captioned “Blinking Error Codes” that links out to this page instead.
Why identical quotes can be honest at $180 and at $600
Two numbers decide a repair: what the part costs, and how long someone is in the machine. On LG washers those two things are barely related, which is why identical-looking quotes can be honest at $180 and honest at $600.
Catalog prices below are single listings from AppliancePartsPros for one representative OEM part number per fault, read August 2026. Your model may take a different number at a different price — treat these as the order of magnitude, not a quote.
| Fault | OEM part (representative) | Part price | Stated install effort |
|---|---|---|---|
tE | Thermistor assembly 6322FR2046C | $24.68 | Easy, 30–60 min |
LE (sensor route) | Rotor position sensor 6501KW2002B | $55.30 | Moderate |
OE | Drain pump and motor 4681EA2001T | $58.43 | Moderate |
PE | Water level pressure switch 6501EA1001R | $64.95 | 10–20 min |
dE / dE1 / dE2 / dL | Door lock switch EBF49827801 | $70.95 | Under an hour |
IE / FE | Water inlet valve AJU75152601 | $138.95 | 10–15 min |
EE | Main PCB EBR86771801 | $285.71 | — |
LE (stator route) | Stator assembly 4417EA1002F | $308.69 | Moderate |
For context on what a technician adds to those figures: Thumbtack’s 2026 figures put appliance repair labor at a $75/hour average with a $40–$110 range, and the national average washing machine job at $224. Consumer Reports members who had a washer professionally repaired reported medians of $123–$214 out of pocket depending on machine type and price tier, $158–$214 for front-loaders.
Set the two side by side and the shape of the LG code list becomes clear. The codes on this page are dominated by cheap parts and short jobs. A PE pressure switch is a $65 part the catalog lists at 10–20 minutes to fit; an IE inlet valve at 10–15 minutes. The tempting next step is to multiply $75 by those minutes, and it gives the wrong answer — $12 to $25 of labor, a bill under $90, which is below the bottom of both totals quoted in the paragraph above. Nobody sends a technician to your house for twenty minutes of billable time.
Short jobs bill at a shop’s minimum, and on the $145 minimum the washer cost build-up uses — two shops’ published figure, Florida and Texas, so read the split rather than the total that PE is a $210 bill with the part at 31% and the IE a $284 bill at 49% — labor-dominated and part-and-labor even, not part-dominated. The practical conclusion survives the correction and the reason changes: a second quote has almost nothing to move on these codes not because the labor line is small but because it is a fixed minimum, and the second shop’s minimum is a published number too. That is still the opposite of the pattern on a tub bearing or a transmission, where the hours are real and a second quote is worth getting — from a shop that bills them.
Two exceptions run the other way. EE and the stator route on LE are $286 and $309 parts before anyone touches the machine — more than the entire CR median repair, and more than a third of a new entry-level washer. A quote in that territory is not padded; it is the part.
Whether any of it is worth paying for depends on the machine’s age, not the code. Run it through the repair-or-replace calculator, which solves for how many more years the repair has to buy. The master appliance repair cost table has the cross-brand figures.
Two places the standard LG advice is wrong
The 53-inch drain height. It circulates widely as the OE fix, and it is real — but it is the spec for the SideKick pedestal washer, which is a small drawer unit with a weak pump. For full-size LG washers, LG’s own drain-hose instruction is different: “DO NOT install the end of the drain hose higher than 96 inches above the bottom of the washer,” and do not extend the hose more than 4 inches beyond the elbow bracket. Applying the pedestal figure to a full-size machine will send you re-plumbing a standpipe that is fine.
The hall sensor. Search LE and nearly every result points at the rotor position sensor — the $55 part in the table above. It is worth knowing that LG’s own documentation never names a component for LE; it says the motor is overloaded and locked, and to let the machine cool. The hall-sensor diagnosis comes from the repair trade, not the manufacturer.
And the trade is not unanimous. Master Samurai Tech’s Appliantology argues the sensor is usually not the fault, and names three other causes: non-HE detergent or too much HE detergent, which over-suds badly enough that the load stops “feeling” right to the control board; a motor wire harness with internal breaks from years of vibration; and, less often, a failed main board. Its recommended order is detergent first, harness second, board last — cheapest to most expensive, with the famous sensor not at the top.
Which is a fair warning about this entire page. A code tells you what the machine noticed. It does not tell you which part failed.
One contradiction in LG’s own documentation, for anyone chasing an IE
LG’s error-code page states the recommended water supply pressure as 14.5 to 80 psi (100–552 kPa), and separately says a pressure-reducing valve is required above 116 psi. LG’s own top-load instructional video states the requirement as between 14.5 and 116 psi.
A house sitting at 100 psi is therefore out of spec by one LG document and inside it by another. If you are diagnosing a persistent IE and your supply pressure is in that band, that ambiguity is LG’s, not yours — and it is a reason to measure the pressure rather than assume it.
Five free checks, all from LG’s own procedures
- Run the right reset. Check the five-reset table above. The 10-second unplug is LG’s instruction for four codes, six if you count
dE1anddE2as the consolidated list does, nine on a WashCombo — not for every code. - Clean the drain pump filter — and note what comes before it. LG’s procedure starts with the machine “empty, turned off, and drained of any visible water in the tub.” Unplug it too: the LG page this check first quoted, which LG no longer serves at any address we could find, said to press POWER and unplug, and water is about to reach the floor in front of the machine. Then a shallow pan goes by the access panel, and the small hose beside the filter is emptied first: “Pull the drain hose carefully into the pan and remove the plug from the hose, allowing the water to drain completely.” The filter comes out at step six of eight, “by turning the filter counter-clockwise,” with a towel ready, because “a little bit of water will run out when the filter is removed.” The order is the part worth keeping: the hose drains the standing water so the filter opening does not have to. LG names a clogged filter as a cause of
OEalongside a kinked hose, so this is the free half of that check. - Pull and rinse the inlet screens. LG’s
IEprocedure: shut the taps, pull the hoses off the back, remove the filters with needle-nose pliers, rinse, refit. - Halve the detergent and run a Tub Clean. This is the free first move for
SUD, and per LG’s blinking-code page, potentially forPEtoo. LG notes a suds-reduction cycle adds about two hours to the run time, so an over-sudsing machine also looks like a slow one. - Write down the model number. Three codes on this page mean different things depending on which LG you own, and it is the first thing a technician asks.
Two rows in the table above are water where water should not be, and they are the ones to stop on rather than work through. LG’s wording for AE is that the machine carries “a safety mechanism installed to prevent flooding the floor” — so the code does not warn of a leak, it reports that the switch has already tripped on one. LG’s procedure allows exactly one restart after the 60-second unplug; if the code comes back, LG’s own next step is a service request rather than a second attempt. FE is the same situation one stage earlier, which is why LG describes the drain pump running “to prevent leaks” there. A machine standing in its own water while still plugged in is the one fault on this page that this site treats the way it treats a gas or a scorched smell elsewhere: stop using it.
After the diagnosis
- Is it worth repairing a washing machine? — the calculator, once you know what’s wrong
- What a washing machine repair costs, by failed component — part price plus labor minimum, arithmetic shown
- Appliance repair cost by type, 2026 — the master table across three published sources
- How long do appliances last? — the lifespan figures, and where they came from
- Are LG appliances reliable? — common failure points by model era
- Dryer error codes, all brands — if the code is on the other machine
- All six error-code pages — one per brand or category, every code read from the manufacturer’s own library
Sources: LG Washer — Error Code List (consolidated, all machine types) · LG Front Load Washer — Error Code List (New) · LG Top Load Washer — LED Blinking Error Codes · LG Top Load Washer — How to Install the Drain Hose · LG Washer — How to Clean the Drain Pump Filter (page dated June 1, 2026; read September 11, 2026) · AppliancePartsPros LG washer parts · Thumbtack appliance repair cost · Consumer Reports, “Should You Repair or Replace Your Broken Washing Machine” · Appliantology / Master Samurai Tech on the LE code · Health Canada RA-16351, LG top-load washers, 2012 · LG Front Load Washer — dE, dE1 and dE2 error codes · LG Parts washer error code list
Codes verified against LG’s published error-code library, August 2026. Part prices verified August 2026. Next scheduled review November 2026.